After checking my drawings I found there was no dimentions for the gland bolts on the body drawings. No problem as its the same as the gland for the packing. Then a bell went off in my head. If I drilled the bolt holes in the gland it would be an easy job to transfer it to the body for the tapped holes. I have several pictures of an easy way to locate them. First step was to drill the 2 holes in the gland.
I then clamped the gland to the body using a small c-clamp. I then picked out the right center punch and prick punched the body.
I then placed another c-clamp on the other side and then removed the clamp and prick punched the other side.
I now had both holes located and I was confident the alignment would be correct. I also scribed the outside of the holes to check for drilling clearance on the bottom side. The drawings call for the holes to be tapped full depth. My tap just made with no room to spare.
I used my drill press for these holes as I had my combo lathe/mill apart to replace a worn crosslide nut. It would give me a chance to use my new laser edge and center finder. I bought this this past Winter at Cabin Fever from the Little Machine Shop. It works just fine and I've been using it more and more. This really made the setup easy in my drill press as I had to set it by eye and clamp the base to the table. If you look close in the picture you can see the laser reflecting off the prick punch mark. I generally use blueing for layout and the laser is quite small as it does not reflect off this type surface. The laser dot is much smaller and easier to index if blueing is used. It sells for 60 dollars and worth every penny. Just click on the picture to go to Little Machine Shop.
I'm just about done with all the machine work. I drilled a couple of holes in the piston to feed oil in to the pin holding it to the handle. Again my laser center finder was used to locate the holes. Now all thats left is to do the linkage arm
I just clamped the linkage into my milling vise and slide it into place and drilled the remaining 4 holes.
The linkage was clamped at an angle for the holes in the bottom end. All the oil passages were relieved at the top using a 60 degree center drill. This it a little bit easier getting the oil in and gives it a finished look. So far this is the only modification I've made on the pump.
Well if it doesn't pump water it'll sure make a good boat anchor as it weighs in at 11 pounds. I never use to save the scrap from a project but I have a large can filled with good silicon bronze shavings. I think maybe I'll bring them over to the scrap yard and cash them in. I guess I could buy Roger a cup of coffee the next time I see him. That's the least I could do for producing a very nice vintage type handpump for my new steamboat. I'm sure others will want to build this very nice looking pump once the word gets out.
Boy, I sure hope that my boat will take all the extra pounds its been gaining lately. Maybe I should consider a diet for the Captain as he's probably 50 lbs. or more overweight. My wife really thinks its going to sink with everything I've been adding lately. In fact she just went and bought a life-jacket for the new puppy. Don't ever try and convince a woman that the dog can swim as well as the Captain and First Mate.
I choose to paint the body with my favorite green texture paint from Rust-o-leum. It the same color as my Pearl Engine. Its really a shame to paint all that beautiful bronze.
Roger furnished a real good teflon type packing. I don't just wrap it around two or three turns but make rings that fit into the gland space with a tapered overlapping end. Make sure that each joint is 180 degrees from each other. I used 3 pieces and might need another. The taper should be installed so that the gland will squeeze the taper together making it leak proof. This way you won't wind up with a spiral and have more packing on one side or ramped at an angle. It takes a little longer to do this way but I feel its worth the extra time and it seals better.
The pumps complete at this point and I have to only add the check valves and I'll check it out soon. When assembling the pump I found that the set screws furnished were 8/32 instead of 10/32 as the drawings called for. No big deal, a trip to the hardware store obtained them. While there I also bought brass cotter-pins instead of using the steel type furnished. Two 5/16 stainless steel washers were also purchased for under the gland bolts. I thought of buying stainless bolts but the ones furnished were a good grade 5 bolt. I don't think they will ever give me a problem. Now to pipe the pump and make a base for it.
I went scrounging thur my plumbing parts for some valves, unions, checks and other parts. I found a matched pair of 400 lb. check valves and 125 lb. gate valves. I have 8 or 10 1/2 copper gate valves that I picked up quite reasonable. They are a Japanese version of a Jenkins valve. I'll give them a shot as the price was right at 2 bucks a valve. They look to be of high quality but for some reason my local wholesaler couldn't sell them. A Jenkins cost 14 bucks were these were 10 he told me. They are made by Toyo the same outfit that makes water closets and other plumbing fixtures. Well its ready to mount on a board and go in the boat for my back up water feed pump. When I assembled it the stroke was not as required. I wound up cutting about 3/16" off the piston as the handle at bottom of the stroke was just slightly down past horizontal. The throws are now equal up and down and I wound up with 2-3/8" stroke instead of 2-1/2". I really don't see a problem except I preferred to have the throws equal. I will talk to Roger about this as there might be a valid reason as to why it was done this way. One last thing if you don't buy check valves from Roger MAKE SURE you use a good quality check valve as that is what will make the pump perform correctly. DO NOT GO WITH CHEAP CHECKS!
This is what I used:
1. A Y pattern type check as the gate is on an angle and will close easy. These type checks you can generally hear them slam closed compared with others
2. Type 200 check which is rated for 400 psi at 150 degrees & 200 psi 550 degrees.
3. A check that comes apart easy as I can almost bet you'll be cleaning one of the checks.
You could get away with a type 125 which is rated for 200 psi at 150 & 125 psi at 300 degrees. They also make a type 150 which falls in between these two. I have a couple of spring loaded checks that I will be trying out at a later date just to see how they perform.